Johanna's Garb

Short Gore Tunic Construction

Cut out the pieces of fabric for the tunic. Use chalk, marking pen, or straight pins to mark as instructed. I advise making a small snip on the fabric edges at these marks. Only cut a few threads - at most half the seam allowance.

Working with the body

On the body you should mark the shoulder line from one side to the other. Now fold the fabric in half long ways, and match the edges so that the shoulder marks meet. From the shoulder line, choose one side to be the back, and the other the front. Mark a line along the fold from the shoulder line toward the back and the front. The center back line should be marked for about 4", and the front line at least 9" from the center point (where the center fold intersects the shoulder line).

Open the fabric. Your marks should form a T shape like this:

T shaped Marks

At this point, finish the neckline. (Or at least cut out the neckline opening)Neckline Link

Attaching the Gores

Gore DiagramThe 4 gore pieces will be sewn to the body, starting the point of the gore at the waist, and the wide end at the hem.

Attaching the GoresIf you remember, when you cut the 4 gores, you had the length side of each piece marked. Lay the gores out beside the body as drawn below. The length side is pointed away from the body and the diagonal cut side is lined up beside the body.

Flip each gore over on the body fabric, and pin in place. The long points that extend past the bottom of the tunic will be trimmed after sewing.

Stitching the Sleeve

Attach the gussetPlace the gusset on one edge of the sleeve as the top. Stitch the top edge, almost to the end of the gusset. Stop the length of your seam allowance from this edge - see detail.

Open the fabric - it should look like this:

Should look like a clunky shoe

Now take the bottom Right corner of the sleeve, and the top left corner of the gusset and match the edge.

Sleeve sewn into a tubeStitch this side of the gusset until you meet the stitching line from above.

Now stitch the rest of the bottom sleeve edges up the point of the gusset.

When the sleeve is turned right side out, it should look like this:

Final View

Attaching sleeve

Each sleeve should have a mark at the center top. This is the point that attaches to the tunic body, on the shoulder line. Place the right side of one sleeve against the right side of the body, matching the center sleeve mark with the shoulder mark. Pin the edges together from the center toward the point of the gusset, then stitch, from the shoulder pin, stopping just short of the point of the gusset. Now pin the rest of the body to the sleeve, and complete sewing on the sleeve. Repeat process with second sleeve.

Almost done!

The garment seams that need to be sewn are the sides, from the downward pointing tip of the gusset to the hem. Pin the body sides together on each side, to the top of the gores. The two gores on each side should match up; but if they don't it will still look fine. Start sewing the side at the point of the gusset. When you get to the gores, continue sewing down the Length side of the gores to complete the seam.

The points of the gores need to be trimmed as illustrated.

All sewn together

And now all that is left is to hem the sleeves and the bottom of the tunic.

If you want, you may use trim or embroidery to embellish the sleeves and neckline, as desired.

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