Johanna's Garb

Long Gore Calculator

Long Gore Measurements

Use a good quality tape measure; some plastic ones will stretch. Pull tape firmly, but not tight. Round to the next quarter inch (so instead of 6 1/16 inch round to 6.25). Double check your measurements.

Enter measurements in a decimal format (i.e. 2.25, 42.75, 18.5 etc). Do not add seam allowances, or ease, or extra to the measurements; the calculator will add as needed.

The person being measured should wear a well fitting top. Wearing a collar or the extra fabric from a loose fitting garment will produce errors in your measurements.

Torso

Neck circumference:  inches

Chest:  inches

Measure the chest as high as possible, under the arms, with the arms hanging down.

Bust :  inches

Measure fullest area of bust. Leave at 0 for men and children.

Shoulder width:  inches

Find the end of your collar bone. Imagine a line straight up to the top of your shouder. Place a straight pin on the top of the shoulder, where this line intersects. Place a pin on each shoulder. Measure the shoulder width across the back, from pin to pin. (Don't remove the pins — one more measurement is needed.)

shoulder pointshoulder width
Arm measurements

Upper arm circumference:  inches

Measure fullest part of upper arm

Sleeve length:  inches

Short Sleeve — measure from the pin on the shoulder to the bend of the elbow.

Long Sleeve — Have the person bend the elbow (ask him to place his hand on his naval). Measure from the pin on the shoulder over the point of his elbow, and continue to the wrist for the long sleeve length. If you want a 3/4 length, then measure to the point you want, but be sure to measure over the point of the elbow, or the sleeve will be much shorter during wear when the elbow is bent.

Vertical Measurements

Tie a length of the ribbon or cord comfortably around the neck.

Deciding garment length:  inches

Decide how long you want this tunic to be: knee length, mid-calf, ankle, or floor length. Measure from the neck cord to the place you want bottom of the garment.

Will this garment be belted? If so add 2" to the measurement before entering.

Other Details

Your desired seam allowance:  inches

If you don't know what seam allowance to choose, I recommend using 0.75 inch seam allowance.

Your desired sleeve hem:  inches

If you don't know what hem to use, a rolled hem is approximately 1 inch on most fabrics.

Your desired bottom hem: 

If you don't know what hem to use, I suggest a 1.5 inch hem. A 3 to 4 inch allowance will allow for a heavy hem and may be preferred if you want a heavy bottom hem or if you are unsure if the garment will be long enough to allow for a very full figure.

Will you be leaving side slits from the hips to the bottom hem? Yes No

Will this be a mid-calf to floor length tunic? Yes No

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